So really throughout this trip there were all sorts of little object lessions in the whole looking, seeing, being seen subject. There is the aspect of what it was like to be an outsider, to be conspicuously out of place. Related is the attention given based on my comparatively light skin...because of my shade of flesh, I all the sudden became powerful and wealthy and beautiful in the eyes people shaped by cultural baggage. Merchants counted the number of times we passed by their booths in a day and occasionally, cursed us when we didn't buy anything, beggers gathered where ever we went, strangers wanted their photos taken with us or of us or with us holding their babies...once, when i got lost on the way back to our hotel in Mumbai, a man who I didn't recognize told me where I was staying...in Delhi mothers sought Juli and I out for tea--literally running down the road to catch up with us---and then introducing us to the batchlors of the household.....
Of course, I did my share of looking too...not to mention my share of trying not to look. I took all sorts of tools that would help me look...three camaras...one with a video button (ironically, sometimes you have to sacrifice a bit of the experience in a moment for the purpose of remembering it later. Juli is smart to not photograph the first couple days.) In the Jain Temple we visited, you were permitted and encouraged to take photos, with the one stipulation of never photographing with your back to an idol. The way different people practised their faith I found particularly interesting...the jenuflects before the Jain idols, the women with shroud covered faces, the rows of Muslem men bowed down in prayer at the set time in Chor Bizaar. Obviously this isn't when I pulled out the camara; I kinda felt a little guilty when I looked for what felt like too long a period of time....something about not wanting to spy on what another person sees as holy.
Probably the one of the toughest confrontation concerning how to see another came with the beggers. It is unfair to assume based on skin tone....but the reality is the dollar carries much more weight than the rupie (as does the Euro, the pound, etc..) There were so many people in need and I am so rich. So many people that I could never give to everyone that asked and still make it home...and then there's the whole philosophy behind it that I haven't worked out in my brain.(what actually helps people that ask for money? Giving directly, giving to organizations that help, keeping food to give, etc...) So the first question that arrose in this confusion and guilt:"when do I give?"...I still don't have a hard fast rule.(probably never will). Sometimes I said no, sometimes I gave rupies, sometimes I bought food, sometimes I said no..prayed, and then gave when the person came back again.) One of the next questions that comes up with the necessity of a "no" answer: "How do you look at someone when you can't give and they keep asking?" Do you ignore them so maybe they won't follow you all the way home? Do you try not to ever catch their gaze to begin with? Do you look them in the eye when you say no?
Arriving at the Ashram in Delhi exposed yet another angle to these questions of looking and seeing. Here people who had once been on the streets (probably in most cases too sick to be one of the beggers but in desprete need of help) were now in community together recovering or having a home in which to die. Many of them bore the signs of trauma, injury, birth defects, handicaps...visual indicators that made pain and vulnerability or just simply difference evident with a first glance. I saw many brave souls maneuvering the streets of Mumbai with similiar situations. One woman I can still see in my mind, adjusting the plank with wheels that transported her body in lue of her legs (legs that looked as if they hadn't grown since age 4) preparing to cross the insanely chaotic downtown streets of Mumbai (the ones that get my pulse going as I try to intersect them with my two good legs). When I first got to the Ashram, all the difference stood out...Does he have that shape of face from Elephantiasis? How did he loose two legs and an arm? Why is he so small? Then after a couple days and some time with the people there, something beautiful and unexpected happenned. I stopped noticing the differences any more than the shape of my own nose or Juli's pretty eyes. The differences just became part of what it meant to be that person....and when I started to love the people, those difference somehow became beautiful to me. Then I remembered how tough it was to really see folks with similiar stories before in Mumbai. How self conscious it made me, how I didn't want to stare, so most of the time chose to look away when in their range of sight. How their forced vulnerability made me feel vulnerable too..."but by the grace of God go I"...Why do I have the particular grace of my good health and they don't? How long will I have this grace? I'm sure God loves them every bit as much as me....
When I noticed my perspective changing at the Ashram, I had this crazy strong desire to sit with people and just look at them, really seeing...not stairing or ignoring, but looking lovingly and respectfully. Somewhere in the middle of this transformation, a seed of self forgetfulness began to grow. When they became beautiful in my eyes, I think for a moment or too, so was I. I didn't have to worry anymore about how I was being perceived. I just started drawing people and letting them look back at me for really long moments of silence....and letting crowds gather to watch every mark i made on the page and every mess-up I had to erase. I could feel redemption happenning. Sometimes people would ask to be drawn, sometimes I asked them. Padam gave a bashful smile when I was drawing the details of his face. I would look up at Seetu and smile till he giggled recording an image of his big joyful laugh in my book. Then, when we were done, I asked the person to sign the drawings of themselves if they could....like it was a contract between the two of us, a mutual agreement take part in the process. Pintu drew this great marshon figure instead, Seetu a pattern of circles.
Of course later, when Provene tried to video tape me for his documentary super close, all-up-in-my-face like, I freaked out again and the self consciousness reared it's ugly head....never quite get there in this life, but there are moments when I have eyes to see more deeply into the inexpressible glory of the people I meet along the way...